How to Change Your Engine Oil (DIY Guide)

Engine & FluidsBeginner45 min

Tools & Supplies You'll Need

Why Change Your Own Oil?

A shop oil change runs $50-100+ depending on the vehicle and oil type. The same oil and filter from an auto parts store costs $25-40. That's real money saved — and it takes less than an hour once you've done it a couple times.

More importantly, you know the job was done right. You pick the oil brand, you know the filter is new, and you know nobody stripped your drain plug with an impact gun.

It's also one of the easiest ways to start wrenching on your own car. If you can turn a wrench and pour liquid into a hole, you can change your oil.

Know Your Specs Before You Start

This is where most first-timers mess up. They grab whatever 5W-30 is on the shelf and a filter that "should fit." Don't do that.

Every engine is designed for a specific oil viscosity and has a specific capacity. Using the wrong weight can cause premature wear, poor fuel economy, or even engine damage — especially in modern engines with tight tolerances and variable valve timing.

You need three things:

Don't guess. Look up your vehicle's exact oil type and capacity on LugSpec — we have specs for thousands of year/make/model combinations.

Your owner's manual has this info too, usually in the "Maintenance" or "Capacities" section.

Full Synthetic vs. Conventional

Most vehicles made after 2010 require full synthetic oil. Many newer engines require 0W-20, which only comes in synthetic. If your manual says synthetic, don't use conventional to save a few bucks — the engine was designed around synthetic oil's properties.

If your manual says conventional is fine, you can use synthetic (it won't hurt anything), but there's no real benefit unless you want to extend your oil change interval.

Step-by-Step: Changing Your Oil

1. Warm Up the Engine

Start the car and let it idle for 3-5 minutes. Warm oil is thinner and drains faster, carrying more contaminants out with it. Don't drive it around until the engine is fully hot — you'll be putting your hands near the drain plug and exhaust, and scalding oil is no joke.

2. Lift and Secure the Vehicle

You need enough clearance to slide under and reach the oil pan. For most sedans and SUVs, a standard floor jack and jack stands is all you need.

Safety rules:

Some vehicles have enough ground clearance to skip jacking entirely — trucks, SUVs, and crossovers with lift kits. If you can comfortably slide the drain pan under and reach the plug, go for it.

3. Locate the Drain Plug

The oil drain plug is on the bottom of the oil pan — a large bolt, usually 14mm, 15mm, or 17mm. If you're not sure which bolt it is, check a YouTube video for your specific car. Removing the wrong bolt (like a transmission drain plug) is an expensive mistake.

Slide the drain pan directly under the plug. Position it slightly toward the rear of the car — oil will arc outward when the plug comes out.

4. Remove the Drain Plug

Using the correct socket, turn the drain plug counterclockwise. Loosen it with the wrench, then unthread the last few turns by hand. Keep inward pressure on the plug as you unthread it — this gives you control so it doesn't fall into the drain pan.

Once the plug is out, oil will pour out. Let it drain for a full 5-10 minutes. Walk away, get a coffee. Patience here means more old oil out of the engine.

Pro tip: While the oil drains, this is a good time to remove the old oil filter. Doing both at once saves time.

5. Replace the Oil Filter

The oil filter is usually on the side or bottom of the engine. There are two common types:

Before installing the new filter:

  1. Check the old gasket came off. If the rubber O-ring from the old filter stays stuck to the engine, you'll have a double-gasket situation that causes a massive oil leak. Run your finger around the mounting surface — it should be clean metal.
  2. Apply a thin film of new oil to the gasket of the new filter. This helps it seal properly and makes removal easier next time.
  3. Thread the new filter on by hand. Once the gasket contacts the mounting surface, give it an additional 3/4 turn by hand. Don't use a wrench to tighten a spin-on filter — hand-tight plus 3/4 turn is all it needs.

6. Reinstall the Drain Plug

Once the oil has fully drained:

  1. Wipe the drain plug clean with a shop rag.
  2. Inspect the crush washer — that thin copper, aluminum, or rubber ring on the plug. Replace it if it's flattened or damaged. New crush washers cost pennies and prevent slow leaks.
  3. Thread the plug in by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a wrench.

Most drain plugs torque to 25-35 ft-lbs, but check your vehicle's spec. The oil pan is typically aluminum — over-torquing strips the threads, and that's a repair you don't want.

7. Fill with New Oil

Pop the hood. Remove the oil fill cap — it's usually labeled with an oil can icon or the oil weight (e.g., "0W-20").

Using a funnel, pour in your new oil. Start with about half a quart less than the full capacity. For example, if your engine takes 5.1 quarts with filter, pour in 4.5 quarts first.

Why? Because overfilling is worse than underfilling. Too much oil creates excessive crankcase pressure, can foam the oil, and in severe cases damages seals. You can always add more — you can't easily take it out.

8. Check the Level and Look for Leaks

  1. Replace the oil fill cap.
  2. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 seconds. The oil pressure light should go off within a few seconds — if it doesn't, shut the engine off immediately and investigate.
  3. While the engine idles, look under the car at the drain plug and filter. Any drips? Tighten as needed.
  4. Shut off the engine. Wait 2 minutes for the oil to settle back into the pan.
  5. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, pull it again. The oil level should be between the two marks (or in the crosshatched area). Top off in small amounts if needed.

After the Oil Change

Reset the Oil Life Monitor

Most modern cars have an oil life monitor that tracks your change interval. After an oil change, you need to reset it — otherwise it'll keep telling you to change the oil. The reset procedure varies by make:

Your owner's manual has the exact procedure. Some newer vehicles let you reset it through the infotainment touchscreen under Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life.

Dispose of Old Oil Properly

Never dump used motor oil down a drain, on the ground, or in the trash. It's an environmental hazard and illegal in most places.

Most auto parts stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA) accept used motor oil and filters for free. Just pour the drained oil into a sealed container (the empty oil bottles work great), put the old filter in a plastic bag, and drop them off at the counter.

Track Your Interval

Conventional oil: every 5,000 miles or 6 months. Full synthetic: every 7,500-10,000 miles or 12 months. These are general guidelines — always follow your owner's manual. Some newer synthetics and engines can go 15,000 miles, but most mechanics recommend not pushing it that far.

Write the mileage and date on a piece of tape and stick it to the inside of your windshield or door jamb. Simple, but it works.

Common Mistakes

Over-Tightening the Drain Plug

This is the number one DIY oil change mistake. The drain plug threads into the oil pan, which is usually aluminum. Crank it too hard and you'll strip the threads — turning a $5 oil change into a $200-500 oil pan repair. Snug plus a quarter turn, or use a torque wrench.

Forgetting to Check for the Old Filter Gasket

If the old filter's rubber gasket stays stuck to the engine block and you thread a new filter on top of it, you have two gaskets stacked. The seal fails almost immediately, and oil pumps out faster than you can react. Always verify the old gasket came off with the old filter.

Using the Wrong Oil Weight

"Oil is oil" is wrong. A modern 0W-20 engine running 10W-40 will have poor fuel economy, sluggish variable valve timing, and accelerated wear. Match the viscosity your owner's manual specifies — not what a forum says, not what the auto parts store clerk suggests.

Overfilling

It's tempting to dump the whole bottle in, but overfilling pressurizes the crankcase and can blow seals, cause foaming, and damage the catalytic converter. Add most of what you need, then check and top off. The dipstick is there for a reason.

Not Warming the Engine First

Cold oil is thick and clings to everything. If you drain cold, a significant amount of old oil (and the contaminants in it) stays behind, mixing with your fresh oil. Three minutes of idle is all it takes.

FAQ

How do I know when it's time to change my oil?

Follow your owner's manual interval or oil life monitor. The old "every 3,000 miles" rule is outdated for modern cars and modern oil. Most vehicles today go 5,000-10,000 miles between changes depending on oil type and driving conditions.

Can I switch between synthetic and conventional?

Yes. Switching between synthetic and conventional won't damage your engine. However, if your manual specifies synthetic, stick with synthetic. Going the other way (conventional when synthetic is required) can cause problems.

What happens if I use 5W-30 instead of 0W-20?

Using a heavier oil than specified reduces fuel economy, may trigger variable valve timing issues, and increases wear in cold starts. Some warranties may be voided. If your manual says 0W-20, use 0W-20.

Do I really need to change the filter every time?

Yes. The filter is cheap ($5-15) and it's right there when you're already doing the work. A clogged filter restricts flow or bypasses entirely, sending unfiltered oil through the engine.

How do I know if my drain plug is cross-threaded?

If the plug won't thread in smoothly by hand, stop. Don't force it with a wrench. Back it out, clean the threads on both the plug and the pan, and try again. If it still won't go, the threads may be damaged and need to be chased with a tap.

Can I change oil without jacking up the car?

Some vehicles have enough ground clearance — trucks, SUVs, Jeeps. For low-clearance sedans and sports cars, you'll need to lift it. Oil extractor pumps can suck oil out through the dipstick tube, eliminating the need to go underneath entirely. They work, but they don't replace the filter.

Look Up Your Exact Torque Spec

Every vehicle is different. Find the factory torque spec for your year, make, and model.

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